Category Archives: Andere

Zaaien in Januari

Al jaren zaai ik pepers en paprika’s in januari, vaak zelfs al tomaatjes ook. Tuincentra’s beginnen vaak veel vroeger in grote verwarmde serres. Aangezien ik geen superserre voor handen heb en het moeilijk is om binnenhuis veel zaaigoed te hebben staan die goed in het zonlicht staan, moet ik andere oplossingen zoeken.

Deze week ben ik alvast weer op een probleem gebotst dat ik eigenlijk zag aankomen en toch te koppig was om het anders aan te pakken. Dit is het relaas.

Ik zaai heel graag in grote trays omdat dat het uitplanten zoveel makkelijker maakt. De beste vind ik trouwens die van het vlaams zaadhuis. Dit jaar wilde ik weer wat voorsprong nemen met een batch peperplantjes en tomatenplantjes die al groot en stevig zouden zijn tegen april. Eigenlijk zoals je ze zou kopen in een tuincentrum en je afvraagt hoe ze dat klaar krijgen om al zo deftige planten aan te bieden in maart.

De tray bestond dus uit zowel tomatenplanten als pepertjes. De tray wilde ik dit jaar eens proberen in een rekje, zonder zonlicht en gewoon op tijd zijn om te verzetten wanneer ze zon nodig hebben. Nu heb ik met pepers echt de ervaring dat het echt 4 weken duurt vooraleer je van een 2 bladig twijgje kunt spreken. Tomaten gaan sneller, maar blijkbaar echt wel veel sneller.

Je voelt het al aankomen. De tomaatjes waren na 10 dagen al twijgjes die naar de zon probeerden groeien en dus heel dunne lange steeltjes hadden met kleine kiemblaadjes. Omdat ik uitplanten te vroeg vond, heb ik heel die tray naar de serre verhuisd in de wetenschap dat die pepertjes echt wel supertraag zouden kiemen. Die twijgjes leken zich te herstellen, maar gisteren heeft het blijkbaar gevroren. Het resultaat is dat al die gekiemde plantjes het begeven hebben.

Zoals vaak, kwaad op mezelf over deze mislukking, zweer ik dat ik peperplanten altijd apart laat kiemen in een potje of klein kiembakje en dat ik nooit nog een andere plant in dezelfde tray zet. Bij deze is de frustratie ook even via deze korte post helemaal verdwenen.

Zaaien in januari brengt dus het probleem met zich mee dat je echt binnenshuis moet werken en op een plaats waar er zonlicht van boven komt. Wat droom ik van een grote binnenserre of een veranda als startpunt. Intern overleg is aan de orde.

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Kruiden in zon en schaduw

Mijn moestuin bestaat uit verhoogde bedden, maar daarrond probeer ik een combinatie van boompjes en vaste planten te verzinnen. De afgelopen jaren heb ik wat problemen gehad met vaste kruiden die gestorven zijn.

De oorzaak hiervoor is omdat ik niet genoeg rekening hield met de omstandigheden die de plant vereist. Veel vaste kruiden zijn wel meerjarig, maar kunnen niet tegen temperaturen onder de 10 graden. De oplossing die ik dit jaar probeer is om op het plantenlabel een stipje te plaatsen, die me moet herinneren de plant tijdig naar binnen te verhuizen.

Een andere oorzaak is dat de meeste kruiden eigenlijk graag volle zon hebben, een minder aantal houden van schaduw. De meeste kruiden staan ook niet graag in te natte grond.

Tijm, bonenkruid, rozemarijn (tegen warme muur bv), oregano, dragon, salie, bergamot, dropplant, brandkruid,  staat vanaf nu op een zonnige en droge plaats.
Koriander, lavas, tuinkers, knoflook en kruiden met een wortel in de naam hebben wel een liefde voor een wat vochtiger ondergrond.
Kruiden die (ook) houden van halfschaduw zijn peterselie, lievevrouwebedstro, lavas, zuring.
Veel kruiden die houden van de zon, kunnen we ook in de schaduwplekjes zetten: bieslook, Valeriaan, Roomse kervel, munt, kattekruid …

Wat het onderhoud betreft, pas ik altijd een tip van een vriend toe: zo vaak mogelijk inknippen en dan blijft hij gezond en niet te groot. Mijn gevoel zegt dat het een beetje is als haarknippen, direct erna krijgt de plant een boost om terug actiever te worden.

Met deze aanpassingen hoop ik dat mijn kruiden langer leven.

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Soorten basilicum

Basilicum is erg lekker, geeft een zuiderse tint aan gerechten en heeft een heel uitgesproken smaak. Soms lijkt de smaak te sterk of te zwak voor bepaalde gerechten. Daarom heb ik dit jaar zoveel mogelijk soorten basilicum geteeld om eens het gebruik de smaken te vergelijken. De zaden komen vooral van het Vlaams zaadhuis, aveve en tuincentrum in de buurt: Ignace Van Caelenberghe.

De soorten die ik aangekocht heb even opgesomd: Thaise Siam Queen, Basilicum Bolloso, rode basilicum / Purple Ruffles, Pluto, Basilicum Genovese gustova en Grootbladige basilicum.

Algemeen is het aan te raden om te starten in de serre om ze later uit te planten of gewoon de pot buiten te zetten zoals in mijn geval.

Basilicum Bolloso

Basilicum Bolloso: een slabladige basilicum

Basilicum Bolloso: een slabladige basilicum

Dit is de enige slabladige basilicum. De bladen zijn fris groen van kleur en worden relatief groot. De bladen hebben een oneffen oppervlak. Het ziet eruit als blaasjes. De smaak is iets milder dan gewone en is meer geschikt om bij gewone salades te voegen.

Van alle soorten vertoont deze Bolloso toch de meeste gelijkenissen met de gewone basilicum.

Pluto

Dwergbasilicum Pluto

Dwergbasilicum Pluto

Pluto is een dwergtype basilicum met kleine, zeer aromatische blaadjes. De plant ziet eruit als een compact en bolvormig ministruikje van ongeveer 20 cm hoog. Dit kan in volle grond geplaatst worden, maar ik heb toch gekozen voor potten die opgekweekt zijn in de serre.

De jonge planten kunnen zelfs nog gebruikt worden in de winter in pot op een zonnige plaats bv vensterbank. Dat geldt trouwens ook voor de rode en de Thaise variant.

Deze soort is ondertussen mijn favoriete soort om te gebruiken waar ik vroeger gewone gebruikte. Op de foto zijn de grote bladeren weegbree die ik er van tussen zal halen.

Purple Ruffles of rode basilicum

Rode of paarse basilicum

Rode of paarse basilicum

Deze heeft nogal veel namen: purperbladige basilicum, Sweet basil, rode basilicum. Het meest correcte zal wel “Ocimum basilicum purpureum” zijn. Als je dan leest dat het blad blauwachtig is, wil je dat toch eens in realiteit zien. Ik heb het niet gedaan, maar het zou het mooist staan in dezelfde pot als grootbladige groene basilicum.  Op het einde van het seizoen geeft deze basilicum mooie paarse bloemen.

Perfect toepasbaar in rijstgerechten of basilicum azijn.

Basilicum Genovese gustosa en Grootbladige basilicum

Basilicum Genovese

Basilicum Genovese

Dit lijkt toch het meest op degene die je koopt in de supermarkt. Ze hebben een mooie groene kleur met zeer aromatische bladeren. Deze soort zet ik toch jaarlijks en elk jaar is het gelijk traject: een trage start maar dan opeens toch een spurt als het warmer wordt.

Persoonlijk heb ik slechte ervaringen met het uitplanten van basilicum vandaar dat ik ze nu in een grotere pot zet. Ik zaai rechtstreeks in de pot die opgekweekt wordt in de serre.

Thai Siam Queen

Thai Siam Queen

Thai Siam Queen

De blaadjes zijn olijfgroen en de bloemen worden paars. De top bladeren gaan van een groene naar een rood-paarse kleur. Deze thaise variant is daarom ideaal als sierplant.

De smaak is wat tussen kaneel, anijs en dragon in. Typisch wordt het gebruikt in oosterse gerechten en dan vooral de Thaise keuken.

Ik heb eigenlijk twee problemen momenteel. Ik zit met een soort dat ik niet weet wat het is (zie sectie ivm pluto) , daarvan heb ik een volledige pot met die soort er ook in. Aangezien ik zaden gekocht heb van Siam Queen van twee verschillende leveranciers, is de meest logische verklaring dat er nog eens verschillende soorten Thaise Siam Queen zijn.

De plantjes op deze foto zijn wel nog heel jong. Mijn ervaring in het algemeen met alle basilicum soorten is dat het toch een relatief traag groeiende plant is in ons klimaat. In elk geval als ze water genoeg krijgen en de zon zit er een paar dagen op, zie je onmiddellijk een forse groei.

Tips voor in de keuken:

Er zijn natuurlijk heel veel toepassingen van basilicum maar ik geef enkel mee wat wij thuis soms doen. Sommigen zeggen dat je bij het oogsten best een heel plantje neemt omdat het plukken van de bladen de plant schaadt. Ik doe dat eigenlijk niet omdat je van basilicum toch niet zoveel van nodig hebt (tenzij bij pesto bereidingen).

Als je gewone natuurazijn overgiet in een mooie fles, stop er basilicum in. Persoonlijk ben ik meer voor de rode varianten omdat deze een mooie rode basilicumazijn wordt. Je kunt ook kunt kiezen voor groene natuurlijk.
Een extra tip hierbij is dat de kleur het mooist is als je de azijn in een donkere plaats bewaart.

Verder is het ook aangenaam in pesto samen met wat andere kruiden.

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Confituur van kruisbessen, aalbessen en frambozen

Kruisbessen, aalbessen en zomer frambozen dragen rijkelijk vruchten in juli. Samen met de kinderen heb ik ongeveer een kilogram fruit geplukt en daarna gesorteerd. Daarmee wilden we confituur maken.

Wij zijn niet zo fan van jam of gelei en daarom wilde ik toch proberen wat stukjes fruit of zelfs pitjes erbij te hebben. In dit artikel leg ik gewoon even uit hoe ik het deed in mijn eerste poging en wat het resultaat is. Op het moment van schrijven is de confituur aan het afkoelen om later te degusteren.

Sap van aalbessen en frambozen

In totaal zijn we gestart met ongeveer een kg aalbessen die gewoon gespoeld werden en in de ontsapper. Op deze manier zijn de onaangename pitjes van de aalbes of geneverbes toch al uit de confituur. Ik vertel erbij dat we zowel gele als rode aalbessen gebruikt hebben. De witgele aalbes is veel zoeter en eten wij bijvoorbeeld niet met suiker erbij. Bij de frambozen zaten er ook wat witte en zoetere tussen ook, maar daarvan hebben we er niet veel.

De uitkomst van dit alles is ongeveer een liter sap.

Vruchtensap koken met suiker en pec

Bij het sap heb ik ongeveer 225 gram rood-paarse stekelbes of kruisbes toegevoegd met daarbij 1kg geleisuiker. Aan de kook brengen en een vijftal minuutjes laten borrelen zoals ik vond in de beschrijving van de geleisuiker. Tijdens continu roeren begon ook een schuimvorming op te treden die ik herinnerde van toen mijn grootmoeder dat maakte. Dit mag je verwijderen met een schuimschep als het veel is.

Eigenlijk is de confituur nu klaar als de stroop voor de stollingstest slaagt. Dat doe je door wat te druppelen op een koud bordje, wacht eventjes tot het afgekoeld is en kijk of het nog uitloopt als je het verticaal houdt. Als je erin drukt worden rimpeltjes gevormd.
In mijn geval moest ik toch nog een aantal minuutjes blijven koken. Ik heb op dat moment een half zakje PEC toegevoegd alhoewel het fruit eigenlijk genoeg pectine zou moeten bevatten. Ik weet niet of dat de truc was of niet, maar de stollingstest lukte direct erna. (Nadien ondervond ik toch een te grote geleistructuur waardoor ik de volgende keer toch geen PEC ga indoen.)

Aftappen

Gelukkig hadden we wat confituurpotjes met deksel bewaard na aankoop en gebruik. Die werden eerst wat in kokend water gehouden en daarna afgevuld via een trechter en pollepel. We hadden vier typische Materne potten gevuld op het einde.

De kinderen hebben deze avond al een “dessertje” gekregen, namelijk elk een halve boterham gesmeerd met confituur zoals in de reclames. Ze vroegen meer maar hoorden: “nee, je mag dan gaan slapen”.

 

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Verschillende technieken om aardbeien te telen

Aardbeien telen staat op het todo lijstje van bijna elke tuinier. Toen we ons huis kochten stonden er in de moestuin vier rijen aardbeien op heuveltjes overspannen met een dik worteldoek.  Ik wist nog niet veel van aardbeien telen en liet alles gewoon staan zoals het was. Het gevolg was dat we heel weinig vruchten hadden. Waarschijnlijk waren dat vooral oude aardbeienstammen (> 3 a 5 jaar) die ik eigenlijk had moeten vernieuwen.

Aangezien de hele moestuin een herontwerp onderging en de volle grond plaats maakte voor de verhoogde bedden, was het tijd voor een aardbeienexperiment. Via verschillende kanalen met als belangrijkste “Pinterest” kreeg ik veel ideeën. De meeste daarvan heb ik zo goed mogelijk proberen toepassen. Hieronder worden de belangrijkste vormen van aardbeienteelt besproken en vergeleken naar mijn eigen bevindingen.

Klassieke rijen

klassieke rij aardbeien

klassieke rij aardbeien

Aan de zijkant waar de zon altijd aankan, heb ik een typische heuvel aarde afgezonderd en afgedekt met plastiek. De plastiek helpt sterk tegen het uitdrogen van de aarde en zorgt ervoor dat de aardbeien proper blijven tijdens de oogst. De gaten heb ik in twee rijen gemaakt en geschrankt zodat er diagonaal 35 a 40 cm tussen is. Op 1 rij wordt nog altijd het meeste gedaan.

Dit was en is enorm succesvol. Als voordeel was er dat het makkelijk te overkoepelen is tegen vogels. Nadeel was dat er aan de buitenkant van het gaas toch vogels in gepikt hadden, maar ook rupsen en dergelijk ongedierte. Er zijn veel geschonden aardbeien bij (in gepikt, wormpjes, rot, …) maar de grootte van de oogst maakt dat dan weer goed. Al bij al, redelijk productief.

Verhoogd bed

Verhoogd bed met aardbeien

Verhoogd bed

Dit is in wezen gewoon een bak van 120cm op 200cm die 40 cm boven de grond uitkomt. Tussen de aardbeien is er stro, ook weer tegen uitdrogen en om de aardbeien proper te houden. Rond de bak is er haksel zoals overal tussen de verhoogde bedden.

Dit was een groot succes. Veel opbrengst, makkelijk af te dekken en vooral nagenoeg geen geschonden aardbeien. Zowel vogels als rupsen bleken hun weg niet te vinden naar die bak. Misschien een nadeel dat het veel plaats inneemt.

Verticale PVC buizen

Hiervan heb ik twee versie, een van 10 cm diameter en een van 16 cm diameter.  De gaten zitten zowat sporadisch verdeeld en niet te groot dat de aarde er niet uitvalt. De gaten kun je laten boren door je schoonvader.

Ik kan nu al zeggen dat de smalste buis te smal was en daardoor te weinig water kon houden. De bredere buis lukt aardig, maar ik vermoed dat ik er goed aandeed in het midden een kleiner buisje met gaatjes in de zijkant te voorzien om bovenaf water geven zodat het wat verdeeld wordt. Laat ons concluderen, het lukt aardig, maar de indruk is er dat het bij anderen beter lukt. Ik laat het staan omwille van het enorme voordeel: het neemt niets van plaats in.

Aardbeienton en PVC buis

Aardbeien ton en PVC buis

Een variant hierop is de aardbeien ton. Hier speelt het probleem van watertekort absoluut niet eigenlijk. Dit is ook een blijver.

Stelling met dakgoten

Houten stelling met dakgoten voor aardbeien

Houten stelling met dakgoten

Dit gaat inderdaad te ver, maar ik had er foto’s van gezien in grote massa productie. Veel is er nog niet van te zeggen behalve dat je vaak water moet geven. Ik zal deze ook proberen afdekken met stro en zien of dat helpt. Op dit moment vechten alle planten teveel tegen zichzelf om grote vruchten te dragen.

Conclusie

De klassieke methode blijkt voor mij dan toch het meest productief. De verhoogde bak is het handigst in onderhoud maar de brede PVC buis mag toch blijven staan aangezien hij geen plaats inneemt.

Ik zal zeker en vast een update geven in deze post over de uiteindelijke productie na de zomer. Momenteel worden de juni aardbeien geoogst die normaal slechts één maand vruchten geven. Enkele soorten juni dragers: Elsanta, Elvira, Suzy en Korona.
De remonterende of doordragende soorten zouden er moeten zijn van half juni tot eind september. Die heb ik onder de vorm van Ostara.

De oogst

Voor de oogst knijp je de vruchten af door op ongeveer 1 cm van de vrucht de steel te knakken. Als de aardbei voldoende rijp is, lukt dat vanzelf. Zo heeft mijn opa in de tijd dat toch geleerd.

Aardbeien oogst

Aardbeien oogst

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Zelf plantpluggen maken

Voor klein plantgoed ga ik soms naar de boerenbond of een plantcentrum in mijn buurt. Laatst waren dat een courgette, komkommer en pompoen. Zelf zaai ik dat ook maar met die aankopen neem je een voorsprong in de serre.

aarde pluggenMeestal zijn het van die kleine klompjes aarde dat je koopt waar je zelfs nog het gaatje ziet waar het zaadje in kiemde.  Blijkbaar heet dat een plantplug. Met enige voorbarigheid veronderstelde ik dat plantpluggen vooral waren om in grote productie te kunnen zaaien en uitplanten. Dat de techniek daarom ook minder praktisch is voor de particulier is de vraag waar ik antwoord op zocht.

De voordelen:

  • 1 zaadje per plug (ipv 2 a 3 zaadjes per potje waar je later dan een of meerdere plantjes van verwijdert)
  • Heel gemakkelijk planten water geven in 1 keer
  • Water krijgen langs onder water ipv tegen de stengel
  • Makkelijker uit te planten (vooral bij courgettes en dergelijke die nogal een zwakte hebben als je hun wortels te veel toucheert).

de pluggenmaker kun je aanschaffen voor slechts 3.5 euro. In het begin ging het wat moeizaam, maar na enige aanpassingen zag het er toch fraai uit. De belangrijkste reden van het uiteindelijke succes ligt in het toevoegen van water aan de potgrond. Hierbij dan ook mijn recept om makkelijk zelf aarde pluggen te maken:

pluggen maken met potgrond

pluggen maken met potgrond

  • Gewone potgrond, of eigen recept
  • Water toevoegen tot je het als sneeuw kunt ballen in de vuist
  • Klein beetje zand toevoegen en mengen (dit garandeert bij te vaste pluggen dat er altijd een doorgang is voor de wortels)
  • Spoel de matrijs aan de binnenkant met licht zand zodat de aarde er makkelijker uit kan en de blokjes minder snel aan elkaar kleven mocht je ze tegen elkaar zetten.
  • Persen: Duw eerst hard zonder de matrijs naar boven te brengen. Daarna haal je langzaam het patroontje vast zodat het blokje eruit komt.

Op dit moment zou het voorbarig zijn om te zeggen dat de techniek met pluggen een groot succes is, maar ik heb er alvast weinig problemen mee gehad eenmaal ik de pluggen kon reproduceren.

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